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Nopa/Hayes

The Nopa (north of Panhandle) neighborhood is still more colorful now that Andrew Johnstone opened Little Chihuahua (292 Divisadero). This miniscule Mexican cantina is just as easy to overlook as it is to underestimate. Surprising quality is on display here from the first bite of warm and light tortilla chips served with fresh pico de gallo and tasty roasted tomatillo salsa, to the last satisfying bite of burritos made with Niman ranch meats and free-range chicken. Bolstered by moist rice cooked in a chipotle- tomato stock, the Smothered Burritos ($6.95) are drenched in a tomato-guajillo sauce. The Tostada Salad ($6.95) features ample organic mixed greens, black beans, avocados, tomatoes, cucumbers, mango and roasted red peppers with a creamy lime-cilantro dressing. If that wasn?t enough, there are even some nice Portuguese wines on the menu. 415-255-8225


Downtown / Civic

Formerly at Taylor st., Sultan (340 O'Farrell) now offers both North and South Indian specialties in a style matching its classier downtown digs. It's still a family affair with the mother in the kitchen crafting great Gujarati dishes, but there?s a newly-hired South Indian chef to help round-out the menu. No heavy breads or creamy sauces. Instead, you?ll find organic yogurt in the raita, Halal meats and free range chicken, plus a level of quality that keeps the ($12 -$22 range for entrees) quite reasonable. Tamarind and Jaggery (dark, coarse, unrefined sugar) combine in a piquant dipping sauce for perfectly fried calamari ($10) prepared with a flavorful chickpea flour batter and the Naan stuffed with paneer and chilies is nice and light. The Keralan-style Fish Curry ( $14), is great and the lunch buffet ($10.95) is one of the best deals downtown. 415-775-1709


Richmond / Sunset

Ana Mandara's chef Khai Duong now brings us Pot de Pho, (3300 Geary) a quaint outlet of nouvelle Vietnamese cuisine with organic ingredients. The servings here are slight but oh so stylish and the attentive waitstaff is unhurried and pleasant. Excellent organic free-range Chicken Pho ($8.95) with house-made rice noodles, bean sprouts, housemade srirachi, pickled onions, chilies and organic Rau Ram (Vietnamese Cilantro). The interior is very spacious with tall bamboo stalks painted on the walls to accentuate the open space and long wooden tables to accommodate large parties. 415-668-0826

My Tofu House (4627 Geary) is a current local favorite for its perfectly satisfying Seafood Soft Tofu ($8.76). This little iron cauldron of oysters, shrimps, clams, mushrooms, onions and sprouts comes out boiling hot with a raw egg provided on the side for impromptu poaching. 415-750-1818

At Cafe Gratitude (1336 9th Ave) the coconut cream pie ($6.50), is aptly named I am Devoted. This dazzling dessert marries delicacy of form with density of flavor combining young Thai coconut flesh with Sri Lankan dried coconut, coconut milk, coconut butter and Medjool dates. With a drizzle of chocolate it is pure raw delight. 415-665-4840

Old-school still has its merits. For twenty years the tacky decor, warm service and extremely inexpensive Vietnamese fare at Minh's Garden (208 Clement) have kept this little Richmond district dive a local favorite. Don?t go for Pho. Instead, order a plate of pan-seared trout, ($8.95) with steaming hot rice and fresh young coconut milk ($2.50) served right in the shell. Ask owner-waiter Kim to take the empty shell back to the kitchen where his wife will cut the top off so you can scrape out all the wonderful coconut meat inside with a spoon. 415-751-8211

Dancing Food     © 2007 Foodism.com Inc. ("Foodism") All Rights Reserved.
 

Mission/Bernal

Kudo's to Oshan the ambitious young owner of Om Shan Tea (233 14th st.) for creating an authentic and aesthetic tea-haven on an otherwise sketchy block in the Mission. At this charming little retreat the gracious staff attends a young crowd of neo-hippies who drop in at odd hours to perch on the round, backless stools, chat, and drink limitless cups of tea for $5. On weekends, the tiny space hosts a wide variety of artists ranging from whirling dervishes to bellydancers. While a food menu is still in the works, the offbeat, openhearted vibe is genuinely appealing. 888-747-8327




Somehow it seems appropriate that at the lofty summit of Bernal Heights you’ would find good Nepali Food. Little Nepal (925 Cortland) The chef received his training by cooking at base camp for climbers headed up Mount Everest. The dishes, both varied and highly aromatic, include: Momos, those plump little Nepalese dumplings served with a pleasingly mild and sweet tomato-sesame sauce.There are many vegetarian choices including a stir-fry featuring mustard-greens and a few rich curries prepared with cashews and cream. One unusual non-veggie specialty is the Choila. These small smoky chunks of lamb are served with a handful of chewy toasted soybeans and beaten rice. 415-643-3881

Castro / Noe

The Samovar Tea Lounge (498 Sanchez @18th st), an eclectic expression of tea culture from around the world, offers a selection of sweet and savory small plates or sandwiches to accompany a hundred-plus premium small estate teas and herbal infusions In an open and airy lounge explore a world of tea with spicy Wasabi peas, or tea-dusted pumpkin seeds. Sweeten your palate with Medjool dates and almonds or satisfy your appetite with a tea-smoked chicken salad or a bento box with salmon or tofu. Other sipping options include Monkey-Picked Tieguanyin, a high grade Chinese Oolong tea, or dense smoky Russian Caravan tea served from a bubbling samovar alongside marionberry jam or honey. 415-626-4700

Incanto (1550 Church) has the guts to serve organ meats in high style. The kitchen here presents an ostensibly "rustic" menu that showcases simple high-quality ingredients in traditional combinations. Nearly all the produce is local, the meats are sourced from small-farmed humanely-raised, and hormone-free animals. Oenophiles should also note that the cellar here stores about 3,000 bottles of wine at any given time. While most are modestly expensive, they are of a quality and selection that is excellent. 415-641-4500

Berkeley/EastBay

Phoenix Pastificio (1250 Addison) Eric Sartenaer, a paragon of pasta arts, offers Berkeley's best take-home pasta from his charming little pastaficio next to the Cafe Zeste Café in Berkeley's Strawberry Creek Design Center. Other examples of Eric's edible artistry are his locally renowned macaroons and olive bread so perfectly baked that the savory fruits you will find amid the light interior of the crispy loaf are as juicy as marinated cherry tomatoes. Spread on some of Eric's own arugula pesto on a warm loaf for perfect summer picnic fare. 510-883-0783

Cheese Board's Pizza Collective. (1504 Shattuck) is a superlative cooperative offering some of the best thin-crust pizza found anywhere. All the pizzas here are vegetarian, with daily offerings ranging from rosemary/potato/ gruyere delights to mouthwatering tomato/onion/feta/arugula/balsamico masterpizzas. 510-549-3183

Neither new nor trendy, the old world style baked goods at Crixa Cakes (2478 Adeline) across the street from the Berkeley Bowl offer a consistent level of quality. They can be ordered for events or enjoyed onsite with good fresh-brewed coffee. 510-548-0421

At Oakland's Oliveto (5655 College Ave) chef Paul Caneles works with seafood supplier, Tom Worthington of Monterey Fish Market to source and present some of the finest sustainable seafood dishes in the Bay Area. 510-547-5356