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Sea Salt
Given their experience, when the owners of popular Berkeley restaurants Lalime's, Jimmy Beans, Fonda and T-rex, decided to turn their considerable talents to presenting sustainable seafood in style, the community responded with appropriate enthusiasm. Awash in sea-toned hues near the newly gentrified corner of San Pablo and Dwight street in Berkeley, Sea Salt offers a pleasant space featuring long tables, comfortable chairs, and exposed brick that manages to be at once casual and elegant.
If the clock conspires, the dollar oysters offered here between 4-6pm daily are a real value. At other hours the savory Effingham's, Kumamoto's etc. are $2 each and arrive with lots of fresh sea-liquor in their shells. Try them with a shellfish-friendly wine such as Domaine Astruc Rose de Syrah ($6.50) served by the glass.
A salad of Organic Mixed Greens with balsamic shallot vinaigrette, Bellwether fromage blanc, and Lucero Farms strawberries is perfect in its simple splendor. The sweetness of the berries, the bright acidity of the vinaigrette, the richness of the fromage blanc, and the tangy texture of Acmes Bread's pain levain inspire the senses and stimulate the apetite.
You could start with the Tartare of Kona Kampachi ( $12). The subtle flavors of the farm-raised Hawaiian yellowtail grown in waters off the Kona coast are offset by a simple accompaniment of radish, celery, lemon and parsley and a few housemade potato chips. Here a glass of Lalime's Au Bon Climat Chardonnay ($8) from Santa Barbara will lend this dish a much needed element of acidity.
The ever-popular white clam chowder ($9) is an intriguing departure from the typical creamy starch-fest. The subtle simplicity of the clam and broth is lent a wonderful richness and depth by a simple garnish of Niman Ranch Bacon and parsley. Follow this with a tall glass of Hoegaarden ($4), a Belgian Witbier, (or wheat beer) that in Europe is often served with a wedge of lemon to complement the delicate hints of coriander and Curacao orange peel lurking in the brew.
Seared Sea Scallops ($21) are a knockout. Served with delicata squash and chervil, the ample portion of scallops was beautifully buoyed by a rich chanterelle-enchanted sauce made even more sumptuous by the sweetness of the squash .
Culminate your meal with the rich Chocolate Pot de Crème ($7) (served with an orange scone ) or a few refreshing bites of Quince & Cranberry Sorbet ( $7).
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