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The Helmand
In one long room filled with cozy chairs and framed paintings, you'll begin by dipping wedges of flat-bread into a trio of sweet, mildly spiced or refreshingly yogurt-based sauces. The number is significant. Afghani cuisine involves at least three major culinary influences: Indian, Greek and Italian.
The Indian influence can be found in that pre-eminent Afghani specialty called Pallow, which is boiled rice seasoned with cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin seeds and black pepper before being baked.The resulting richly seasoned rice can be enjoyed with a variety of vegetarian appetizers, many of which can also be ordered as entrees.
The Greek influence is evident in the lamb dishes and the use of filo, yogurt and mint comes from the days when Alexander the Great's "peace-keeping" armies remained in the area of what is now Afghanistan several centuries before the appearance of either Christianity or Islam.
Perhaps the most impressive of these Lamb specialties is Dwopiaza, a superbly marinated and grilled Leg of Lamb served with yellow dal, lightly marinated and caramelized onions served with sauted mushrooms over rice.
Pasta dishes are the Italian legacy brought by later generations of Romans who arrived in Afghanistan when Alexander's mighty army was no more than a bad memory and
Aushak is a sort of Afghani ravioli filled with leeks and scallions and is served with a garlicky yogurt sauce.
The most impressive offering at Helmand is the Kaddo, a pan-sauteed and baked wedge of baby pumpkin served somewhat adrift in the ubiquitous yogurt-garlic sauce and topped with a sort of mild beef Bolognese. The pleasing paradox of sweet and savory elements in this simple yet sophisticated presentation rivals far trendier and pricier venues.
Desserts include fine homemade rice pudding or ice cream flavored with pistachio and cardamom that can be enjoyed with excellent Turkish-style coffee.
Helmand Restaurant
430 Broadway
S.F., CA 94133
415-362-0641
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