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Ajanta
The Ajanta caves lie in a wooded ravine just outside a village in western central India. Adorned with sculptures and paintings that depict important events in the life of Buddha, they were hewn and decorated as monsoon retreats for Buddhist monks. One senses that this association informs the attentive atmosphere of the restaurant, and the commitment to humanely-raised free-range meats and sustainable seafood.
Chef/Owner Lachu Moorjani makes a great gastronomical tour-guide. Born in the state of Sind, which became part of Pakistan after British rule ended in 1947, Lachu grew up in Rajasthan, and later moved to Bombay. When he came to the US in 1969 he brought with him his family culinary tradition combined with a broad knowledge of regional Indian cuisine. Lachu opened his first restaurant in 1987 and six years later sold that establishment to open Ajanta. By changing his menu each month to feature dishes from various regions of India, Lachu continues to give loyal patrons the chance to get a much broader understanding of a cuisine often oversimplified when exported.
The pleasant dining room, warm-toned and vibrant, manages to be at once boisterous and relaxed, both casual and elegant. Start with a couple of small plates. The Tandoori Chicken Chaat, ($4.50) involves marinated chicken pieces
grilled in a tandoor oven, then shredded and tossed with oil, lime juice, red onions, cilantro, ginger, and spices. Bolstered with fresh organic greens, the salad is delectable with first-rate nan and best followed by a tall glass of Sierra Nevada Ale, Pilsner Urquell, or perhaps the Ayinger Celebrator: a dark, rich double bock.
When in season, the Tandoori Asparagus ($ 5.50 ) is not to be missed. Marinated in garlic, lemon juice, cumin, clove, and paprika it is served with a delicate yogurt-cashew sour cream sauce. Perhaps even more astounding is the Tandoori Portobello Mushrooms. ($4.50) Marinated in ginger, lemon, clove, cinnamon and cardomom and served with a yogurt-cashew-tamarind sauce. Here the concentrated tamarind flavors contrast with the sweetness of the mushrooms in such a way that you almost believe you are biting into a very tender piece of lamb served with a rich yet citrusy sauce. With this dish you might try a $20 half-bottle of Pinot Noir, Methode Ancienne, from Navarro Vineyard's which would also go well with the excellent Niman Ranch Lamb chops on the menu.
But here's what I'd do. I'd order another beer and try the Seyal Machi, ($11 ) just to revel in the smoky sweetness of the caramelized onions, offset by that slight sourness of mango powder, that surrounds and informs these catfish fillets with a delectable depth of flavor. Here turmeric, coriander, and paprika are used enhance the savory succulence of the quickly seared and briefly simmered catfish fillets.
Don't forget to finish your meal with the intensely rich yet not-too sweet, Kulfi ($4.50) and some excellent dark spiced tea.
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Ajanta
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