California olive oil producers are watching for the impact of the new USDA standards for grades of olive oil which took effect this past October revising those that have been in place since 1948. 

The standards, initiated by the California Olive Oil Council (COOC), define the different grades of olive oil, using terms that are similar to the definitions used by the International Olive Council.They also promote truth in labeling by providing a basis for enforcement by state and federal agencies if products are mislabeled.

Patricia Darragh, Executive Director of the COOC believes buyers will now have a common language for oils and believes it will benefit ethical producers who have had to compete with unscrupulous blenders who charge a premium for low and poor quality oils. While the new standards are only voluntary, allowing producers to choose whether to seek USDA certification for their products, Darragh believes they will provide a legal reference and encourage more consumers to ask questions about the sourcing of their olives such as "Where did those olives really come from? Who made this oil? When was it milled? Is this a bulk commodity traded only on the basis of price or from an ethical producer who cares about both the quality of their process and their product?”

Olive trees have long been a part of California culinary culture. They arrived in the state with the Spanish Missionaries who planted them next to the Mission buildings where many of the majestic old trees still remain today. When the Missions fell out of favor, so did the Olive trees and the harvesting of their fruit and oils was abandoned.  It wasn’t until the canning industry started up in the Central Valley in the early 1900’s, that olives were again harvested in California, although in this case it was for canned, black, eating olives.

When the California Wine industry took off, it led the way for the marketing of California Artisinal products. California food products became premium products and those who owned vinyards began looking around to see what else growing on their land could beprofitable. Many found that they had old, mission olive trees still surviving and rather than ripping them out to plant more vinyards, many began to harvest the olives and produce artisinal olive oils. 

Today, the California Olive Oil Council has certified over 200 different oils. A COOC seal ensures that the oil has passed a rigorous testing and tasting process to qualify as Extra Virgin Oil. This process involves three very stringent tests: it must be from the 1st press, it must have an acidity level lower than .5%, and it must pass an organileptic taste test by a board of very picky tasters.  

California has actualy set the bar higher than the national standards in most European countries where an acidity level below .8 percent  is required. The COOC requires the level to remain below .5 percent. The difference becomes important when you begin to use oil for subtle differences in flavor and acidity. You may wish to use on style of oil for preparing sauces and another as a "finishing" oil for salads or to drizzle over foods right before plating.  

Of course the other benefit to buying California olive oils is that they are local. Not only do local oils have to stand up to less in the way of transport- heat and light and age being the three main degradation factors to avoid in preserving oil- but they also support those small producers trying to make a living at sustainable agriculture in the state.