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Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen sits on a quiet corner of St Helena (well, ok, they’re all a bit quiet, but this one is really quiet) offering skillfully crafted and sustainably-sourced cuisine to locals and tourists alike.
On any given sunny day you’d be hard-pressed to find a more cool and copacetic appetizer than Cindy’s Grape Almond Gazpacho ($8). The combination of tangy buttermilk and rich cream cheese softening a sweet seedless grape and cucumber puree makes beautiful tooth music. Toasted almonds enrich the cool invigorating broth enlivened by fresh dill, chives, mirin, and a combination of white and cayenne pepper.
For a great followup, try Oysters Bingo ($3 per) topped with tequila aioli, spinach and parmesan. Briefly shell-broiled to a golden-toned perfection, they are well matched with a glass of Madrigal, a fine Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc.
Of the many fine “big small plates”, (the ample sampler-size starters that Cindy has popularized) is the Rabbit Tostada with red chile salsa ($13.95). Here, tender and toothsome shredded rabbit meat, cumin-seasoned black beans, guajillo peppers, and tangy feta cheese are all piled atop a crispy tostada. Main dishes include the Wood Oven Duck ($26.95) masterfully prepared and served with picholine olives, pearl onions, sherry-lemon sauce and potato croquettes. For dessert, try the Pineapple Upside-Down Cake ($9) alongside a glass of Dolce Far Niente, Napa’s own golden nectar-like late harvest wine, or perhaps the decadent Campfire Pie ($9), an altitudinous confection of meringue, marshmallow, and chocolate sauce glaciating over an oreo cookie style crust with a short espresso. Cindy's Grape Almond Gazpacho 2 pounds seedless green grapes 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped 1/4 cup almonds toasted 2 scallions, white and light green parts only, coarsely chopped 1/4 cup plain yogurt 1/4 cup rice vinegar (Mirin) 3 ounces cream cheese 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup buttermilk 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 2 sprigs dill, minced 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper Minced fresh chives Thin peeled cucumber slices To make the soup, combine the grapes , cucumber, almonds, scallions, vinegar, yogurt, cream cheese, olive oil, and buttermilk in a blender or food processor. Process until almost smooth, with just a bit of extra texture remaining. Stir in the salt, pepper, dill weed, and cayenne until incorporated. Cover and refrigerate. Garnish with cucumber slices when serving.
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